Rouge Baiser, 1948
Le bas Scandale, 1950
Dubonnet, 1950
Les Bas Christian Dior, 1952
Cinzano, 1953
Miss Dior, 1959
Dior, 1960
Ortalion, 1967
Eau Sauvage, 1978
Gruau's artistic
talent in fashion illustration merited him publication at the age of 14 and by
the time he reached 18, he was published internationally, in the US, Italy, and
France. In his lifetime, Gruau worked for numerous magazines including Marie-Claire, Femina, Elle,
Vogue,
Harper's
Bazaar, Flair, L'Officiel, and Madame Figaro,
and L'Officiel de la Couture.
Gruau was hired
by major designers like Pierre Balmain, Christian Dior, Jacques Fath,
Balenciaga,
Elsa Schiaparelli, Rochas, Lanvin,
Elizabeth
Arden, and Hubert de Givenchy. Gruau gave life to their
haute couture clothing and expanded their popularity with his captivating
illustrations.
Gruau, whose
posters often echoed both classical Japanese drawings and Toulouse-Lautrec's
sketches of fin de siècle Paris night life, was even best known for creating
the marketing images for Miss Dior perfume and for Rouge Baiser
lipstick. According to Alan Riding of the New York Times, "everything he
did, he evoked the glamour and style of the world of high fashion".
Gruau's pictures
were the advertisements of the time and gave marketing and presentation of
clothing a new brilliant flare.
Gruau's first
position as artistic director for advertising was in 1947 with Christian Dior.
The two together formed the "New Look" of the time, partially a
result of Dior's designs, and partially a result of Gruau's combined
interpretation and upgrading of old-style graphic illustration. Gruau formed a
friendship with Dior that contributed to their successful collaboration and
further enlargement of fashion advertisement, which a primary reason he is
mostly remembered for his work with Dior.
Gruau moved to
the United States in 1948 to work for Vogue and Harper's Bazaar.
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